Hiking Zion

We really did much of our sightseeing of Zion by hiking the trails. With the park Map and Guide in hand, we would catch the shuttle bus at the Visitor’s Center (which was a quick 10 min walk from our camper), get off at the appropriate stop, and hike for several hours….sometimes having lunch on the trail.

A number of the hiking trails were fairly straightforward. It surprised us to find a ‘hardened’ or mostly paved surface, like on this section of trail on the way to Angel’s landing…….

And some of the trails were pretty easy, not too steep…..like the trail to the Emerald Pools…….

Or this completely accessible trail, the Riverside Walk……

Other trails began to get a bit steeper and more challenging……This is heading up to Scout Lookout, on the way to Angel’s Landing.

Sections of the trail are built up along the side of the cliff face……

And make some pretty steep little switchbacks like here at ‘Walter’s Wiggles’.

Angel’s Landing is one of the most popular and certainly the most talked about hike at Zion…not particularly because it is the most spectacular…..but because the last mile of this hike becomes very challenging……It climbs up the red rocked cliff face in this picture, then crosses a narrow spine to the top of the whiter cliff just behind it (in the center of this picture). The flat topped cliff to the left of the picture is named the Great White Throne.

This section of trail climbs steeply. There are chains for hanging onto…..

But the footing can be very NARROW and the drop-off ….sheer. This is a picture that Fred took of his foot. This trail is noted to not be for anyone who is afraid of heights…….

I did not really feel drawn to this hike ….and I knew that I would not find it particularly enjoyable (that is a nice way of saying that I would be mostly terrified!). I did not feel that I would be missing anything….. so, I enjoyed the view from where I was, while Fred (who does not mind the heights) hiked on up just to see what ‘all the fuss’ was about.

This is Scout Lookout…….where I sat and waited for Fred to come back from the top of Angel’s Landing. (That is me, center right in this group of people, with a hat on. Fred took this photo from the top of Angel’s Landing. Pretty good zoom!)

While I sat at Scout Lookout, I listened to the bit of conversations going on around me….as people decided whether they would tackle the last mile…..Some people felt drawn to it….for the view…or for the challenge. Some with something to prove, or not wanting to miss anything, or just to keep up with others in their group. Some started up the trail…only to decide that it just wasn’t for them. Others made it to the top, and back…exhilarated with the accomplishment.

Later, while hiking a section of Hidden Canyon Trail……I encountered a bit of a challenging trail….

And managed to ‘hang in there’……getting through that section without any problem.

Zion certainly has something for everyone……and the beauty can be appreciated from the bottom…the top….and all the way in between!

Water in a Desert Canyon

I had mentioned that it was water that brought people to the Zion region…….but, before that, it was water that carved and created this landscape.

The power of water…….steady, flowing, relentlessly seeking the lower level….periodically bursting forth in flood….. scouring out the canyon ……Virgin River carved through this portion of the Colorado Plateau much as the Colorado River did at the Grand Canyon. Water in an arid landscape creates canyon walls with eroding edges….in a wetter climate, you would have just wide valleys.

Along the side canyons, water flows from tributaries across the plateau….

To cascade out over the canyon in  waterfalls…….more dramatic after rains or snow melt…but very pretty, here.

Tracing upstream to pools such as this …..named Emerald Pool for the green color of the algae which is more visible sometimes than others. (It did not look green to me, just sort-of muddy brown).

Ground water on the canyon rim also seeps through porous layers of sandstone to emerge (as much as 1,000 – 4,000 years later) as springs such as this one at Weeping Rock…… giving rise to wonderfully green ‘hanging gardens’.

Water was frequently, the destination for the hiking trails…..the Emerald Pools Trail, The Weeping Rock Trail, The Water Falls, The Riverside walk, etc.

Here, at the end of the Riverside Walk the river becomes the trail…..the Narrows…..you just wade right up the river as the canyon walls get closer and closer together. We were not able to hike the Narrows. It was, unfortunately,  closed beyond this point due to high water levels……the power of water is not to be taken lightly…….

Zion National park

April 16-21, 2012 – We spent this week exploring Zion National Park, Utah. Zion sits on the Colorado Plateau and shares a similar geology with the Grand Canyon. In Zion, however, you are at the bottom of the canyon, looking up, instead of at the rim looking down or out.

Humans have lived in Zion’s canyons for thousands of years. The first inhabitants hunted giant sloth and mammoth. About 2,600 years ago, the Ancestral Puebloans moved to this area hunting game and farming. Then, about 800 years ago, the Ancestral Puebloans had moved on and the Paiute Peoples came to live in this area. In the 1860’s the Mormons had explored southern Utah, and sent a group of pioneers to settle here.

All of these peoples were attracted to Zion for the same reason…..water.

The Virgin River, which carved out Zion Canyon, provided a much need source of water for growing crops and attracting game animals, such as mule deer.

The Mormons who settled this area were ‘called’ by their church (not necessarily volunteers) to move to this southern Utah area to grow cotton and other warm season crops which the community needed to be self-sufficient….giving rise to this area’s nickname of ‘Dixie’.

Upon seeing this amazing canyon, they gave it the name of Zion, or place of refuge and sanctuary. They were so awestruck, that the believers felt that God, Himself, and the Angels must live here……

and named the rock formations…..Angel’s Landing, The Great White Throne, The Alter of Sacrifice, The Patriarchs (Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob), and any number of Temples…….

Zion National park has a small, intimate feeling. The main part of the park is centered around the Virgin River Canyon. The park has a wonderful free shuttle system which runs the length of the canyon, stopping at nine stops going up canyon, and the same nine going back down to the Visitor’s Center, taking about 80 minutes to run the round trip.

There were many hiking trails and overlooks where one could get a good feel for this unusual landscape.

This is a park whose grandeur is best appreciated from the bottom looking up, rather than the top, looking down.

Hiking Out and Recovery

April 12 – We woke up at first light to a chilly morning. It had rained off and on in the early morning hours, but we had slept snug and dry in our tent. Breakfast was a simple affair – a breakfast bar and some water – we had planned to eat only cold foods in order to to lighten our load. We packed up our tent and sleeping bags, packed the backpacks and hit the trail. Our time in the canyon was quickly coming to an end. All that was left was the hike out…..

The morning’s hike started out in peaceful beauty……

Several mule deer were browsing….. oblivious to our presence.

And, again, the wildflowers captured our attention.

The 4.5 miles of the Bright Angel Trail, from Indian Gardens to the rim, is conveniently divided into thirds by 3 mile Rest House and 1.5 mile Rest House. The first third heading up gains 1,000 feet of elevation. The second third gains 800 feet, while the final push to the rim is 1,200 feet of elevation gain.
We could feel the effort of hiking uphill….relentlessly, steadily uphill. The trail had been worn by the mules and each ‘step’ was wallowed out, making the effort one of lifting ones foot up–and–over each step. We had not remembered the final 1.5 miles as being so steep.
We kept pretty steady at it. I have found that is how hiking out usually is…….Once it is time to get there…...you just kind-of grind it out. We hiked out in 4.5 hours.
We were tired, but not much the worse for wear. My feet fared well….no small triumph….We were not ravenously hungry…..We had eaten so much at Phantom Ranch. Legs - OK. Knees – OK.   It had been an effort…but, overall, one that we had felt well prepared for.
We headed back to the camper, glad for our cozy little place to rest. Bed by 8pm and a SOUND nights sleep!
The next several days were spent working on our pictures and these blogs, taking care of housekeeping chores, laundry, grocery shopping etc. and thinking back over our time in the canyon…..and what an incredible experience it had been.
Saturday, we zipped down to Chandler, AZ to pick up Jade, who had been staying with Sarah and Jason. Thanks again, guys, for taking such good care of her.    : )    While in Chandler, we stopped by REI to replace a tent pole that  had broken, and got much needed haircuts.
It is difficult to leave such an awesome place….one that holds such fond memories….This Grand Canyon which draws us in.  Monday, we will hitch up and head to Utah, where we will spend some time in Zion National Park, and the surrounding area…..making new memories and perhaps discovering  new ‘favorite’ places along the way…..

Plateau Point After the Rain - Amazing Light ….. A Rainbow….and….Condors!

April 11 – late afternoon – The rain had stopped, and even though the skies looked threatening, and the wind was BLOWING, we decided to hike the 1.5 miles out to Plateau Point. This is one of our favorite places…..we have such good memories of sitting on this overlook in the very middle of the canyon….sharing that experience for the first time with our kids in 2004, and again with our friend, Becky, in 2010. We could not pass up this opportunity, no matter what the weather.

I am SO glad that we went……The lighting was spectacular! And if you look closely in the center of this picture…..a rainbow!

Faint….almost blocked out by the heavy clouds….. the unmistakable promise of a rainbow.
As we watched the sky…..suddenly we spotted a California Condor! Then two…then three!

The three Condors were riding the air currents…..around and around the face of the cliff…..landing here….and then there….as if practicing?

We were able to get this picture when the three landed on a nearby cliff face. The Ranger had asked “How do you know that you have spotted a Condor? One answer – By their tag!”  The mature Condors all have a number tag. The young birds do not get their tags until they are two years old.
Later, when we were able to ask a Ranger about the Condors we had sighted , we were told that #4 was a 12 year old male and #80 was his mate, a 10 year old female.  Condors mate for life. In the past several years, they had had several failed attempts at nesting, but this year they had been successful. The third bird in the group was their 6 month old fledgling (they are full sized when they fledge) We had been right. The parents were teaching the young bird to fly…..practicing on the windy air currents!

Condors are kind-of ugly birds up close…..

But majestic in flight! And a success story of bringing a species back from the brink of extinction.

We sat and watched for the Condors….and watched the light and clouds create changing colors in the canyon……

At that half-way point, where both river……

And rim are visible.

We watched as evening fell and the sunset turned the rocks red/orange…..

The sunset itself was unremarkable….too much cloud cover. But…Oh – the show that was put on for those few who sat and watched!

Halfway UP…..Bright Angel Trail to Indian Gardens

Wednesday, April 11- We had been fortified with another wonderful breakfast of pancakes and eggs at Phantom Ranch, but, unfortunately, it was time to hit the trail. With more than a bit of reluctance, we shouldered our backpacks and started our journey out of the canyon. We were hiking up Bright Angel Trail, 4.5 miles to Indian Gardens Campground. Rain was predicted for the afternoon/evening, so we wanted to get an early start.

The trail begins with 1.5 miles along the river.


Then, the trail turns and begins to climb up the canyon, following Garden Creek. As we climbed higher….. the views of the canyon….spectacular, both large…..

And small….The cactus flowers were in bloom…..so pretty, I think, because of the sparseness around them.

As the trail follows Bright Angel trough up the canyon, we see a small waterfall….and increasing lushness.

Approaching Indian Gardens…..the Redbud tress were in bloom!

We arrived at Indian Gardens in time for lunch. The hike up had not been too bad. We covered the 4.5 miles and 1,500 feet elevation gain in 3.5 hours, and felt pretty good.
We set up camp, and rested a bit…..then found ourselves glad for the shelter over the picnic table, as it poured down rain! Fortunately,  the rain only lasted about 30 minutes. Windy…. with threatening skies….we decided to go out exploring.