Reflections From the River

How does one set out to really experience something as vast as the Grand Canyon? You start at the rim…..and are awestruck. You learn about the geology of the rocks and the forces that created this canyon and find yourself overwhelmed. You hike a trail, maybe even to the bottom of the canyon…..and look up…..

You sit at the river…..and ponder the forces, geologic and divine…..still, there is no understanding. Yet, there is a peace…..

A truth which slowly sinks in……The Grand Canyon is not what is seen from the rim looking down, nor from the bottom looking up……nor even what is seen from Plateau Point, in the middle of the canyon.
It is not the River which carved it….nor the rocks which have been formed throughout time………nor the people who have lived here and have changed…and been changed…. by the canyon.

The Grand Canyon is all of these…….and the path beneath your feet….and the view in front of you…..and the serenity that surrounds you.

Having the Time to Explore

April 10, 2012- This time, hiking the Grand Canyon, we planned to spend two nights at the bottom of the canyon to give ourselves time to explore and experience the inner canyon.

Tuesday morning, after a wonderful breakfast at Phantom Ranch, we wandered up the North Kaibab Trail to explore a bit, having no real destination in mind. Our pace was relaxed, and we felt remarkably good….legs and feet none the worse for the hike down.

The North Kaibab Trail runs 14 miles from Phantom Ranch, up Bright Angel Canyon to the north rim. This lower section of the trail runs along the Bright Angel Creek, gaining only 1,500 feet elevation over about 7 miles to Cottonwood Campground.

It was a glorious morning! We felt free and breezy……unconstrained by time or destination……

The wild flowers were amazing! We stopped to photograph every one!

Our walk took us, first, up to Phantom Overlook……There really are no words to describe standing there….as if we were the only ones in the canyon…..

Looking up from the inner canyon to see the south rim, where we had stood just the morning before….

Coming down from the overlook, we continued our walk on up the North Kaibab Trail….along Bright Angel Creek.

It was a beautiful walk, with good trail…..

We walked as far as the confluence with Phantom Creek, which joins Bright Angel Creek about 1.5 miles up from Phantom Ranch…..and then on up just a ways…..before deciding to turn and head back. Our total round trip hike was about 6.6 miles.

We had walked along the inner canyon floor…..listened to the rushing waters that formed the canyon……felt the ageless rocks….and experienced the canyon…..at least a small part of it…..for a moment……

Life At The Bottom of the Canyon

April 9-10 – When I have looked down from the Rim and pointed out the campground at the bottom and Phantom Ranch…I have wondered what was going on down there beside Bright Angel Creek, under those Cottonwood trees…..

We arrived at Bright Angel Campground around 12:30pm and picked out a nice site right by the creek….

The campground has 30 campsites along Bright Angel Creek.

We were not the only ones to enjoy the creek…these deer were browsing just across from our campsite.

After resting up a bit, we got out to explore a bit…..

These Pueblo ruins were located along Bright Angel Creek.

We walked down to the beach – about 1/4 mile from the campground. It is incredible to think that we were sitting on the banks on the Colorado River!

Later, we wandered over to Phantom Ranch…..


The Canteen where we would have our meals…...and cabins which sit nestled in the cool shade of the trees…..

We settled on one of these benches beneath the Sycamore tree…..a welcome relief in the 92 degree heat….and listened to the Ranger give a talk. I think it was the same talk (different Ranger) on the geology of the Grand Canyon as we had listened to in 2004!
In talking with the Rangers and staff, we learned that the Rangers stay at the bottom of the canyon for a week at a time – Tuesday is swap-out day- when they hike back out and their replacement hikes in. The Phantom Ranch staff works 10 days on – 4 days off, and have to hike in and out when they want to take their time off out of the canyon.
At 6pm, we eagerly lined up at the Canteen and waited for the dinner bell…..We were HUNGRY!

Phantom Ranch serves wonderful meals – Hiker’s Stew, or Steaks, or Chili for dinner – Pancakes and eggs and bacon for breakfast- all served ‘family style’ and all you can eat!
We had scheduled our meals – supper for 2 nights, and breakfasts for 2 mornings– at Phantom Ranch. This would save us from carrying the weight of so much food…and allow us to not have to take a cook stove or pot.
After supper, we settled into our campsite…..and before long, went to sleep.

It Draws Us In……

Monday, April 9, 2012 – We hiked down to the bottom of the Grand Canyon…..

On more that one occasion, we have been asked “Why?”….. “Why would you want to hike all the way down?” I gave this question serious thought….and I am not sure that I have any clear answers……beyond the standard…”Because it is there….”
 
When you are looking down from the rim of the canyon, you see a kaleidoscope of images and colors….and it is difficult to take in the scope of the whole canyon…..it is just too vast…..But there is something about this Canyon that draws us in…..

We have sat at the rim looking down….…..and we think “We want to go there”. (This photo is overlooking Indian Gardens Campground (the green area) on the Bright Angel Trail and on out to Plateau Point)

From the rim, you occasionally get a glimpse of the Inner Gorge and the mighty Colorado River (which doesn’t look so mighty at this distance) and wonder, “Is it really possible to go there?”

Then you see a trail leading up from the river….”Yes, you can go there”…. and the idea is born……
We have hiked the Grand Canyon with our kids in 2004. It was an awesome experience that we have treasured, but we have wished that we had had more time to really experience the bottom of the canyon. In 2010, we hiked to Indian Gardens and Plateau Point (halfway down the canyon) with our friend, Becky, and we knew that we would have to hike to the bottom again……

We set out in the early morning sunlight and cool temperatures, with packs on our backs….. planning to hike down the South Kaibab Trail, spend two nights at Bright Angel Campground at the bottom of the canyon, then hike up the Bright Angel Trail, spending one night at Indian Gardens, half way back up.

When you hike, you get a completely different appreciation of the canyon……

Details become more visible, with the vastness of the canyon as a back drop…..This is Cedar Ridge on the South Kaibab Trail.

The trail ahead of you can look pretty daunting…….

But up close…..it becomes ‘do-able’…..
We hiked well and strong…..this time, our legs did not seem to take the punishment that we had remembered from 2004. All along the way, we thought about how much we had enjoyed sharing this trail with our kids, and how we hoped that we can share this, again, and other experiences with them……

The view of the Colorado River and the Inner Gorge…..means we are getting closer…..

Just a really steep set of switchbacks before we cross over the bridge……note the river rafters in this picture…..(Hmm……another way to see the canyon…….my mind starts working…….)

This suspension bridge looks kind-of scary, but feels pretty secure……At any rate, by this time, I was just glad to be down all those switchbacks and almost to our campground.    : )
We hiked the 6.7 miles down in 5.5 hours…..and this time, we were not completely worn out…calves not nearly as sore…and my toes fared MUCH better.
So – what is it that draws us…..partly, the challenge…..and the lessons learned on the trail that seem so applicable to the rest of life…..
And the experience……the stunning scenery…….and knowing that you are included in the 1% of those visitors who hike to the bottom of the canyon……
But, I think it is simply this…..Fred and I have always enjoyed seeing the world ‘on our feet’……

And there is no better way to feel a part of the Grand Canyon, than to wear it on your feet……

Living the ‘Wild’ Life

April 8, 2012 – Sunday afternoon, after saying goodbye to Sarah and Jason (and Jade), we moved our camper just across the road to Trailer Village, a private campground in the park with electric and water hookups. (We had to move our camper because there is a 7 day limit at Mather Campground.)

We were a bit surprised at the ‘wild’ life going on within this park…….

This small herd of elk….5-6 of them…..wandered through

And were just browsing beside the road…….
..
Totally unconcerned about the people or the campers parked nearby.
Despite these  wild comings and goings, we had to stay focused …we had work to do getting ready for our hike down the Grand Canyon in the morning.
We packed our backpacks and doubled checked our gear, then had a nice dinner with Joann and said our goodbyes. She will be moving on in the morning, and we will be heading out on our hike......

Easter Sunrise

April 8, 2012 –Sarah, Jason, Joann, Fred and I all got up at 4:45 to go out to Mather Point for the Easter Sunrise Service. This was the 77th Annual Easter service held at the Grand Canyon. We have very special memories of Easter services at Petit Jean State Park, Arkansas….but this was the first time that we  had seen the sunrise at the Grand Canyon.

So very moving……

We joined a crowd of people, all bundled against the cold…….

To watch the dawn paint colors in the sky against the backdrop of the Canyon…..and give praise to the one who created all of this.

There is something so very powerful in a group of people of all denominations, races, creeds or beliefs……all gathered together in recognition of the majesty of creation…….and in praise of the creator…..

And in the hope…… that is the daily miracle of the sun/Son rise.

Happy Easter! …..Everyday…..